Living life simply

March 2, 2006

A wise old man once advised friends not to seek fresh fish from a store with a fridge for 'that really means it is not fresh.'

Residents of the island of Maripipi in the Philippines have no such problems as a man daily walks past homes sounding a shell horn and offering the catch within minutes of it being landed. With fish a staple diet, his call is anticipated and keenly awaited.

First-time visitors to Maripipi, a lush almost tropical island in the Samar Sea about eight hours by road and boat from Cebu, the nationصs second largest city, on arrival discover a simple local life, the first and most obvious being that boats and walking are the main modes of mobility.

While there are perhaps about 100 motor cycles on the island of 7,000 residents, there are less than 10 vehicles, and this includes two ambulances and the parish church pick-up that can be hired - by those in the know - with driver and petrol for Peso 500 ($9.4) per day.

The main cement road - or walkway - extends 24 kilometres around the shoreline, but much of the island is inaccessible except by foot, for the interior is mountainous and the shoreline frequently steep.

While there is plentiful virgin water from springs and rainfall, the lack of a local system means supplies are frequently limited, and power is another challenge, with a local supply only from 6pm - midnight daily, though a handful of homes have generators.

With no cinemas, bars, hotels, banks or shopping malls, the world of plastic is still to make a local debut, though there is talk that the Maripipi Multi-Purpose Co-operative may soon have a card facility.

The Co-operative is a strong foundation in the island's daily business life, selling rice, dry goods, construction items and general merchandise, and providing members dividends and a basic banking system through interest on deposits and arranging loans.

Most visitors and seasoned travellers view island conditions as difficult, though the age-old traditions of a slower pace, close ties with family and friends, little crime and vandalism, and no traffic jams or pollution appeal long-term to a select few.

Sitting once a week for regional cases, the court handles more civil than criminal cases, and passengers arriving by boat at the islandصs basic main jetty from Naval two and a half hour's away in neighbouring Leyte Province are immediately confronted by a 'This is a drug free island' sign.

Elsewhere away from the shore signs advise 'Yes to God, No to drugs,' with the Catholic church a dominant - some may view over-powerful - mainstay to island life, through its involvement in spiritual, educational and social matters including everything from PTA meetings to a Matron contest at the church hall.

Vast monies have clearly been spent on the upkeep of the centrally located St Michael the Archangel Church and adjoining school, with the neatly painted walls and air conditioned modern interior better equipped and maintained than any of the nearby homes.

The local population has dwindled from around 12,000 in the 1940s through an increasing number of younger people seeking better career opportunities away from the island, though the basic Maripipi lifestyle with few distractions is clearly conducive to learning, for many former local high school pupils are now among the professional ranks of the Philippines best doctors and judges.

Some - many having sought positions worldwide - later find themselves yearning for the peaceful and safe surrounds of Maripipi life, returning to benefit from a cheap basic lifestyle with a family able to live simply though comfortably on $100 - $200 a month, with fresh fish and meat and locally harvested vegetables and coconuts plus rice providing the essential basics to a healthy diet. 'Peso 5,000 ($94) a month is the equivalent to Peso 20,000 ($378) in Manila taking into account housing and transport to work in the capital,' says Jocelyn Montuerto, a Maripipi national government employee.

Pay for a local government employee is around Peso 120 - 150 ($2.2 - $2.8) per day, while a live-in househelp receives Peso 1,000 - Peso 1,500 ($18 - $27) per month. Those earning between Peso 2,500 - 5,000 ($46 - 92) per month pay one per cent tax, and those paid Peso 5,000 -10,000 ($93 - 185) three per cent.

While many workers are described as 'good Christian people who show respect and are friendly' some Maripipi residents are 'extremely laid back,' possibly brought on by the continual slow pace of daily life.

Away from fishing a four-times a year coconut harvest is the nearest thing to a local industry, though many households are almost self sufficient, rearing chickens for eggs and the occasional meat, growing vegetables and fruit, with any extra sold or exchanged with neighbours.

In addition to the Co-operative there is the Chinese store and a couple of general shops with everything from nails and motor cycle tyres to pig feed and beer for sale. But in surrounds where there are no e-mails, daily newspapers and few mobile phones, this cannot qualify for retail therapy for those that might feel they are missing out on life with modern trapping.

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Middle East Expatriate - Online Edition